AlpiNN Restaurant
How to Arrive in Style at 6000ft
DESTINATION: THE DOLOMITES
I am a planner when it comes to travel and researching great restaurants. I love spending time obsessing over details and going down rabbit holes. But for our two-week stay in Northern Italy this summer, I decided to take a page from my husband's playbook and leave some room for surprise and spontaneity. Of course, I still used TripIt (my favorite travel app), but I didn't stress over every little detail in advance. If I had, I would have read on the ApliNN website (in bold) AlpiNN is not accessible by car. A handy piece of information. To learn from my mistake, read to the end. There’s a note on attire, too (another learning lesson). But for now, more on the INCREDIBLE AlpiNN…
Situated at an altitude of 2000m (6,500ft) is the gorgeous gastronomic endeavor of 3-star Michelin chef Norbert Niederkofler and his business partner, Paolo Ferretti. Devotion to the food, fare, and staples of South Tyrol is what embodies AlpiNN and the work of chef Niederkofler. From wild game to mountain herbs, only simple and native ingredients prevail. He calls his philosophy 'Cook the Mountain,' which is the title of his book. Reliance on small producers and regional farmers is also essential to his viewpoint. This is key to the cuisine, as it represents the toil of local farmers in every dish created.
The mountain-focused mindset began while running a casual pizzeria at Rosa Alpina Hotel & Spa in San Cassiano. Despite being a popular destination, chef Niederkofler envisioned a fine dining Michelin-star establishment that would showcase the flavors and ingredients of Austria and Northern Italy. Thus, St. Hubertus was born. When a few skeptics suggested that selecting produce solely from the Dolomite mountains would never lead to a Michelin star, the chef decided to aim for three. St. Hubertus was rewarded with its first Michelin star in 2000, a second in 2007, and a third star in 2018. In 2018, looking to expand and create a more relaxed environment, AlpiNN opened. A former cable car station on the summit of Kronplatz is now home base for sharing the gastronomic philosophy, with executive chef Fabio Curreli at the helm.
From the moment we stepped inside, we were surrounded by sheer beauty. Our table, strategically positioned by a wall of windows, offered awe-inspiring panoramic views of the majestic Alps. Once at our table, we were greeted with a warm welcome, hot bread, and whipped butter topped with smoked salt; one word: exceptional. I opted for a creamy bean soup with crispy lentils, and Matt selected a barley risotto with goat cheese and speck (a cured and lightly smoked ham from South Tyrol). Both were outstanding.
For me, one of the most impressive culinary creations was chef Curreli’s charcoal-baked onion topped with Sasso Nero cheese, served on a bed of hot hay. Sasso Nero is a local, light-colored cheese renowned for its lengthy aging process, which gives it hints of aromatic spices and notes of roasted chestnuts.
And for dessert, we shared the deconstructed tiramisu. I am not a sweet eater (I know, I know), but the deconstructed tiramisu was special. Biscuits, a bowl of coffee, and a cup of cream served on a long rustic board allowed us to dip, dunk, and devour. Perhaps the only thing that could compete with the food and view was the service. Chef Curreli graciously came to our table after lunch, and Master Sommelier Valeria Hinna Danesi was delightful.
HOW NOT TO ARRIVE:
We decided that a convertible would be a fun way to explore Austria and Northern Italy, so we rented an Audi convertible from Sixt, my favorite rental company in Europe, and set off for the mountains.
As expected, the Dolomites had many switchbacks, so traveling between towns took a while. However, our journey to have lunch at AlpiNN took a long time.
We followed the GPS and drove up the mountain. With each mile, the road became narrower and narrower. Following the GPS instructions, we turned onto a narrow gravel drive.
After a few minutes, I couldn't get any traction and asked Matt to take over driving. As I stopped the car, I wondered, “How does anyone ever make it to this restaurant?”
As I got out of the car to switch places, I had a realization. I quickly called the restaurant and asked, “What is the best way to get there?” The lady politely responded, “By ski lift. It’s the only way.”
At that moment, hikers with poles and backpacks were coming up behind us. “Oh my god, we are on a hiking trail!"
A 17-point turn, and we headed back down the path. I can ONLY imagine what the trekkers must have been thinking, “Who are these assholes in the Audi!?!”
We found the nearest ski lift. But in the spirit of the day, we found ourselves on the backside of the mountain (wrong lift), which prompted a 5-minute hike to AlpiNN.
Everyone we encountered on our trek was outfitted in proper hiking attire…but not us. Thankfully, I was wearing my Gazelle Adidas. The scene reminded me of Marisa Tomei and Joe Pesci in My Cousin Vinny, “Oh yeah, you blend."
Has anyone else had crazy GPS adventures? Do tell...
THE BEST WAY TO ARRIVE:
Kronplatz 2000 Cableway Valley Station in Riscone, via della Funivia 10, Bruneck
LOCATION:
Kronplatz 39030
Marebbe (BZ)
Italy
Phone: +39 0474 431072
Website: https://alpinn.it/en/